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Paul Smith accepts the applause of the crowd at the end of his unisex catwalk show. Grace Coddington and Liz Tilberis, all these incredible women, were dressing supermodels like Linda Evangelista in my clothes for men, he recalled. But one of the secrets of Paul Smiths cheery, straight-talking brand is that it is more sophisticated than it lets on. The womenswear on the catwalk was not simply borrowed-from-the-boys, but fine-tuned for the female body. The attitude and fabrics are taken from menswear, but the tailoring a higher and more defined waist, a longer jacket, a strong shoulder is calibrated to flatter the female form. A dandy aesthetic running through the mens velvet suits and fitted waistcoats was adapted for women with colourful Fair Isle-knit sweater dresses, and silk blouses with a painterly feather print. Pinterest Paul Smith accepts the applause of the crowd at the end of his unisex catwalk show. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock The show was staged under the glass roof of the grand Ecole Des Beaux-Arts, just a few streets from where Sir Paul Smith staged his very first fashion show in a friends apartment on the rue de Vaugirard, that time to an audience of 35 people, with friends as models and a soundtrack he had compiled on a cassette. But it was very British, not just stylistically but in the emphasis on British-made fabrics in many cases modern, lightweight versions of fabrics Smith first used in the 1970s. The brightly coloured feathers, which appeared on mens suit linings as well as silk womenswear, were inspired by an illustrated 18th-century book of British birds. In the face of the unstoppable rise of a sports aesthetic in menswear, Smith remains a staunch defender of the suit.

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Fashion and feminism dont always get along, which is precisely why whats happening right now is significant. When women on protest marches are wearing the same feminist-slogan T-shirts as models on the Paris catwalks, we have, what we call at fashion week, a moment. Last Saturday, the actor Natalie Portman spoke at the Los Angeles Womens March wearing a Dior T-shirt sporting the legend We Should All Be Feminists, a quote Dior took from the writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie , and which became the most Instagrammed look of the previous Paris fashion week. Rihanna posted a photo of herself in the same T-shirt on Saturday, as well as another image of herself wearing a pink THIS P**SY GRABS BACK hoodie from the label, designed by Victorias Secret model Leomie Anderson. This was shortly after Alexa Chung put up a selfie wearing an IN SOLIDARITY T-shirt from the Deep End Club, a conscious fashion label by DJ Tennessee Thomas. Ariana Grande Instagrammed herself in a hooded sweatshirt bearing an image of Malala Yousafzai and the legend FIGHT LIKE A GIRL. She teamed the sweatshirt with a pair of thigh-high boots. Pinterest A protestor at the Womens March in the US at the weekend. Photograph: Jessica Hill/AP Interestingly, all of these images cross-fertilise two very different aesthetics.

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